I didn't make the barrel but I thought the sequence was nice. It's funny because I was just whining about not having any surfing pictures yesterday and this morning I saw my friend John on the cliff watching the surf, and then like five minutes later I realized he had a camera and was taking pictures. Way cool. I did land the floater in the next sequence and a fun little mid-august surf session. I was actually warm in the water which is always nice and only happens like twice a year here. Hopefully this will help everyone that's not in Hawaii want to come a visit.
As long as I'm doing a post about surfing in Santa Cruz, I had two funny surf experiences with my rip curl wetsuit that Jesse picked up for me at the outlet down south. It has these red and black letters on the shoulders and chest and down one leg and as my friend Avery put it, "Apparently you didn't get the nor cal memo about all black wetsuits." Then like three days latter I paddled out to 4-mile and a guy in the line-up says something to the effects of, "Judging from your wetsuit you're not from around here." At least I can say I'm from Hawaii which is somewhere as cool as Santa Cruz, if I was from so-cal or the valley it might have been time to paddle in around then. Enjoy the pictures. If I ever get more I'll just put the best ones. It was just so fun to get some actual surfing pictures of myself.
2 comments:
What's wrong with all black wetsuits? I am regretting having the 4/3 sent to me, because I have absolutely no room for anything right now. Like, bring me your extra clothes when you come down, since I am going to leave all of mine here.
You are the hottest surfer alive! as for abilities I can't say much because I understand nothing about surfing tricks even though you've tried to explain it to me time and time again.
p.s Thank you John for taking the pictures!
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