Thursday, October 11, 2007

Surfing in Japan

So I finally went surfing again after a hiatus of eight months, not counting a few waves at Castles. My leg is still not healed at all, but I am finally doing some exercises. Anyway, so I caught a ride with someone in the ward and he wanted to be the first one in the water at a spot called Malibu. To be first, you have to be in the water at five, and since its two hours away, you have to get up at 3 am. Since I haven't been sleeping all that well anyway and haven't been suffering too much for lack of sleep, I decided to go. Also, I want him to know he can count on me to go, so he'll call me next time. Anyway, we got there and Malibu was totally flat and blown out. I actually wasn't too surprised since I had check the surf report and it had said it would be windy. So we found another spot facing more easterly and it was head high. It was pretty fun, although I could neither paddle nor really maneuver at all on the wave. A definite low in my surfing career. Then we came in and drove around had breakfast and checked a bunch more spots. One was kind of north facing and so the wind was offshore and it was a river mouth and was actually pretty hollow. Some waves even spit. Unfortunately the sets were maybe waist to shoulder high. If it were three to four times bigger it would have been epic. Also it was super crowded. Still I caught a few fun ones. And two hours back. Tolls were 15-20 dollars each way, but I wasn't really keeping track. Worth it though. Still cheaper than psychiatric care.
Oh and we are still trying to get a microwave and toaster. So tonight I biked across town to get one, maybe 30 min, got lost as usual, and couldn't find the person I was supposed to meet, forgot her number, and had to come home without anything. Kind of frustrating. Bekah finally went to Costco, so we have bagels and oatmeal and chocolate covered raisins. No good cereal though. Except granola for 12 dollars. Hmmm.

4 comments:

Karen said...

Mimi says: Greetings to you in Japan! I'm glad your knee is fixed and you got to go surfing. Love you from Grandma.

Karen said...

I was waiting for Mimi to flinch when I read her the part about the tolls. We thought 4 dollars on the Benicia Bridge was more than enough. We will have to learn some surfing lingo to truly appreciate your experience!

Pamela Palmer said...

glad you broke the proverbial ice. do your exercises religiously. pretend you are austin george. should we send you cereal for christmas? love, mom

Pamela Palmer said...

also i'm now home and you got a postcard in the mail saying that since you are not a student at ucirvine any more you need to start paying your loans.