I tried out my birthday present at Steamer Lane today. I got a 6'1", 19 1/2 and 2 3/8 surfboard from Buck Noe, a local shapers who's pretty well known around here. It was a board he had ridden for an little while. Thanks to everyone that contributed to the surfboard fund. I had a little extra left over so I'm sending Jesse a wetsuit, hood, and booties so you don't have to feel bad if you didn't send anything to him in Japan. The board has a pretty big concave in the tail which is different from most boards I've ridden. So far I like it a lot, very loose without being squirrely. The winds finally calmed down so I had a nice afternoon session at Steamer Lane. The darker it got the more the tide dropped so there were some fun, fast waves coming in. Damaris took some pictures so I've include a few of those. I want to get some video but first I need to learn how to surf better and Enzo needs to learn not to go through the guard rail or learn to swim.
2 comments:
Sweet. I'm stoked you got a board. Good job. Lookin good.
that looks like a really nice wave you are wasting on the top. unless it is really slow of the drop that looks like some fun whitewash. but I am totally jealous. jesse
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